Why Choose a Downeast Humidor?
Long time cigar smokers know that humidors prices have dropped dramatically over the past several years. That's because most humidors on the market today are mass produced imports, made of pressed particles or cheap softwoods like pine, and covered with a thin layer of veneer, or wood-grain vinyl. Often, they are referred to as cherry, walnut, oak or maple, but these denominations almost always describe the color, rather than the actual type of wood used. They are quickly machine sprayed with lacquer many times for a shiny finish that can be quite attractive when the box is new. But the lacquer scratches easily, the veneer can peel, and the staples that hold these boxes together come loose in time.
Most importantly, the particle board or softwood walls do not protect the contents. Although lined with Spanish cedar, usually a quarter inch or less thick, the soft walls of these bargain boxes suck the moisture out of the cedar and provide a sub-optimal home for their contents.
Downeast Humidors protect your cigars
Cigars need to live in a controlled environment, protected from fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The humidity inside your humidor climbs higher when any refillable humidifier is first filled with water, followed by a steady drop in humidity as the water evaporates. In low quality humidors, this drop can be quite dramatic, requiring humidifiers to be refilled often. During each of these cycles, some of the natural oils and sugars contained within the tobacco can dissipate along with the moisture, robbing the cigar of its character, flavor and its foundation for improving with age.
Our majestic Maine hardwoods have exceptionally high specific gravities. Combined with a layer of Spanish cedar, they create walls which allow a steady and controlled exchange of moisture between the wood and the inside environment. When moisture is abundant, the hardwood walls absorb moisture, to be slowly and gradually released as the water in the humidification device evaporates.
Two way humidity control
This process is sometimes called two way humidity control. Two-way humidity control continually responds to the environment and maintains a very stable and precise relative humidity. In a solid hardwood humidor, the relative humidity will remain at around 68%, whether the ambient humidity is 20% or 90%, and the temperature will remain around 70 degrees. It is this stability that prevents loss of the natural oils, sugars and flavor as your cigars age. If you smoke cheap cigars and don't particularly care how they taste, a mass produced import may be fine for you. But if you care about your cigars, want them to draw well, burn evenly and improve with age, consider our humidors.
A great humidor, and a great value
Downeast boxes perform like champions, are as beautiful as your furniture, and are a great value. You won't find a more reasonably priced truly hand crafted hardwood humidor anywhere, and you can spend hundreds of dollars trying.
Our wood
Great humidors start with great wood. We use only local hardwoods, sustainably harvested from the deep forests of Maine, and they are all stunning in their own way. If you like wood, you'll love our humidors. There's nothing ornate or fancy about a Downeast Humidor. We prefer to let the wood do the talking. Standard wood choices for all humidors are oak or two-tone ash. Upgrade choices are hickory, wild cherry, walnut, curly maple, birdseye maple, premium (highly figured) birdseye maple and flame birch. If you're interested in another species of wood, we can probably get it, provided it is sustainably harvested in Maine. If you look through the photos accompanying each of our products, you'll see examples of all the woods we use. Keep scrolling for a description of each type of hardwood, and its characteristics. If you have any questions about your wood choice, don't hesitate to ask us, using the contact us form.
Wood choices:
Standard woods
OAK - The mighty oak tree produces wood of exceptional strength with one of the highest specific gravities available. Plentiful and inexpensive, oak has been used for everything from wine barrels to the yokes once pulled by oxen. The moisture transfer rate is so low that it takes 2-3 years to dry oak firewood. Oak was the wood of choice for humidors in the 19th and early 20th centuries. When stained, the grain is usually dramatic, with high contrast. When unstained, oak usually finishes to a warm golden brown. The color is uniform. With a dark stain, the grain tends to appear quite black. Because it is a closed grain wood, oak sometimes absorbs stain a little unevenly. Oak has a medium texture, so the grain's texture usually appears in the finish. If you like a slightly more rustic look and want a high functioning humidor, oak is for you. If you want a glassy smooth surface, oak is probably not the best choice.
ASH - This sturdy hardwood has some very interesting colors, and is popular among furniture makers. It is probably best known as the wood of choice for baseball bats. We use ash that contains a combination of wood from the center of the tree (heartwood) and wood from the outer portion (sapwood) which results in a beautiful golden two-tone look when unstained. When stained, the contrast between the heartwood and sapwood is usually obscured. Ash has a high specific gravity, although not quite as high as oak or hickory, and is great for humidors. Its texture is smoother than oak.
Upgrade woods
HICKORY - The nut-bearing hickory tree produces wood known for its strength, and you'll find hickory used to make Windsor chairs and other furniture that requires bending. Pound for pound, it is the heaviest wood we use. It has the highest specific gravity and is the hardest of all North American hardwoods. The grain is smooth, and there are sometimes multiple color variations within each board, visible when unstained.
CHERRY - The cherry tree grows wild over much of Maine. With its smooth surface, subtle grain and dark golden reddish color, cherry has many fans among furniture makers. The color is uniform, and the grain is quiet and thin. Cherry quickly darkens with age but modern cherry furniture is often stained to give it an aged look. We don't stain cherry. In terms of hardness and specific gravity, cherry is mid range among hardwoods
BIRDSEYE MAPLE - Of the many maple trees harvested in Maine, a small number contain the unique small spots called bird's eyes, in addition to the normal wood grain. Science has yet to understand what causes this configuration. Birdseye maple is found exclusively in the sugar maple. The color can range from creamy white to rich golden brown, depending on which portion of the log the board came from, and is frequently a combination of both. Premium birdseye maple has bigger, more frequent and more dramatic eyes, and contains additional swirling pattern called "figure." This highly figured wood is harder and more dense than oak or mash, and makes a great humidor.
CURLY MAPLE - Sometimes called tiger maple, this rare hardwood has a memorable wave like pattern running across the grain. Although maple in general can be quite hard, the best curly maple tends to come from softer wood and is closer to cherry in specific gravity. Guitar players know that curly maple is used to make the super smooth necks of Fender guitars, the bodies of Gibson Les Paul Customs and the backs of some acoustic guitars, as well as other stringed instruments like fiddles and cellos. In fact, we get our curly maple from the same lumber mill as Fender and Gibson. This is the rock 'n roll hardwood and it makes a strikingly unique humidor. Curly maple looks best in a natural finish which shows off the curls. It produces a consistently smooth and shiny finish, but does not accept stain well. We sometimes use toned oil to make the color a little darker because curly maple tends to be naturally very light.
FLAME BIRCH - Birch is a hard, smooth wood said to contain oils that make it resistant to moisture. A small number of birch trees contain large wave-like patterns that resemble flames--hence, the name flame birch. This is a unique, rare and premium hardwood that makes a memorable humidor.
WALNUT - The dark heartwood of the walnut, sometimes called the black walnut, is highly prized as veneer wood because of its rich beauty and smooth texture. The grain structure is complex, often producing stunning patterns, although sometimes it is straight grained. With its multiple subtle color variations from creamy milk chocolate to deep reddish black, walnut makes an elegantly dark humidor with a smooth finish. We don't stain walnut because it is naturally dark. If you like dark wood, walnut is for you. In hardness and specific gravity, walnut is mid-range.
Note on wood selection: Wood grain and color are like snowflakes — every board is different. While each type of wood has its own grain tendencies, the grain pattern is mostly influenced by the portion of the log from which a particular board was cut. Boards sawn horizontally from the middle of the log on the left or right of center (quarter sawn), for example, will go directly across the grain and generally have narrow straight grain, as opposed to boards cut high from the center, which have more arcing patterns called "cathedral" grain. Color varies from tree to tree, from board to board and even within the same board. The grain and color of your humidor may be different from our photos, but one thing is certain--it will be unique and beautiful. If there is a particular type of grain or color you'd prefer, let us know and we can probably do it.
Colors
In the world of mass produced furniture and humidors, the distinction between the color of the wood, and the type of tree the wood comes from tends to be blurred. You can apply walnut-colored stain to a pine board, and get a color that approximates dark walnut. But the pine is still pine. When we talk about walnut, or cherry or oak, we are talking about a species of tree. While we can apply dark stains to oak, ash and hickory if you choose, our preference is a natural finish because we think that stain can diminish the natural artistry of the wood. In our view, if you want a dark humidor, choose walnut, or cherry for a moderately dark look. Our birdseye maple tends to be mostly golden brown, often with lighter streaks, but lighter colored birdseye is available for a more traditional maple color.
Keep in mind that there can be significant color variations with each variety of wood, sometimes within the same board. We don't steam, bleach, dye or treat our wood with chemicals to achieve uniformity of color. The color of your humidor will probably vary slightly from our illustrations.
The Finish
We use a proprietary finishing method which involves hand-rubbing the wood with a combination of oils to enhance its natural color, allowing the oils to cure for several days, then applying several coats of clear hand-rubbed polyurethane as a topcoat. Every coat of oil and polyurethane is sanded before the next coat is applied. Polyurethane doesn't shine quite as highly as lacquer, and it takes more work to apply and more time to dry. But for wood which is handled every day, polyurethane is simply the best. It is durable, highly resistant to scratches and easy to maintain, with excellent moisture-barrier properties. If you want a super glassy finish on all surfaces, ask about our premium finish. If the glossy look isn't for you, try our satin or straight oiled finish.
Edge Profiles
We offer a selection of four different edge profiles for the top and base of your humidor. You can choose two different profiles for the same humidor, one for the top and one for the bottom. Here's what they look like:
We also offer a full-square architecture with no top or base edging. Making a humidor in this style is more time consuming, and therefore slightly more expensive.
Tops
Our basic top is simply two pieces of matching hardwood boards joined together to make one panel. Our Miami top consists of an edge band, usually about 1" wide and often made of a contrasting wood, which surrounds a center panel constructed of two pieces of wood with complementary grain. If you choose a Miami top, make sure to let us know what type of wood to use for the edge band.
Our double thick top uses an additional layer of wood, usually about 3/4" thick, to create a more ornate look, and to put more wood between your cigars and the rest of the world. The different layers can be different types of wood. Since a double thick top has two edge profiles, make sure to let us know which ones to use. One of our favorite combinations is a rounded with notch edge on the first layer, and a Roman edge on the upper level.
Hinges
Hardware is a big factor in determining the final cost of a humidor. Our basic hinge is surface mounted steel available in bright or antique brass plated finish which allow the lid to rest open at 95 degrees from the horizontal. If you prefer mortised, or hidden, hinges, we offer solid brass rectangular (often called "butt hinges") and solid brass quadrant hinges. Hiding the hinges provides no functional benefit, and increases the price significantly. Feel free to contact us for more information about these choices.
Humidification
All of our humidors are fully lined with premium double sanded Spanish cedar. The thickness depends on the size. We use 1/4" cedar on our smaller humidors and 3/8" cedar on our largest models. Thicker cedar (1/2") is available as an option. The combination of cedar and solid hardwood walls, along with a baffled lid (the cedar in the bottom portion of the humidor protrudes 3/8" into the lid), gives our humidors unsurpassed moisture retention qualities. Our humidors retain moisture so well, that some don't even use humidifiers, especially in the more humid areas of the country. Unlike the mass produced, softwood boxes, Downeast humidors don't need moisture added every couple of days. You can go on vacation without your cigars drying out. If you like, we can install an aerator in your humidor to enhance the circulation of humidified air. We offer two types: grooved and slatted. A grooved aerator is simply grooves cut into the bottom cedar to allow air to pass under the cigars. A slatted aerator is removable and consists of 1" x 1/4" slats over a 3/4" frame. A grooved aerator does not reduce the humidor's capacity, while a slatted aerator does.
Hygrometers and Humidifiers
Our humidors are available without humidifier or hygrometer so you can spend as much or as little as you like on these, from the top of the line to a sponge in a baggie. If you want, we can custom fit a humidifier and hygrometer into your humidor--in the lid or in the side for humidifiers, and in the front or in the lid for hygrometers. We'll recess them into the wood in the most attractive and efficient way possible so you won't need to consume valuable headroom fastening a device to the surface of the cedar with a magnet or Velcro. If you use humidification beads, we can make a boxes or boxes to hold them. We offer a variety of hygrometers and humidifiers on our Accessories page in different price ranges. If you don't see what you want, let us know and we'll get it for you. Please feel free to contact us for help in deciding how much humidification you'll need. It doesn't take much to humidify a Downeast Humidor compared to lesser humidors.
Seasoning Your New Humidor
The method commonly recommended for seasoning a new humidor is to wipe the Spanish cedar with distilled water and close the humidor for 24 hours. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD. The moisture retention qualities of Downeast Humidors are so good that wiping the cedar may produce mold growth. We suggest filling your humidifier, calibrating your hygrometer and placing a small glass of distilled water inside the humidor. Close the lid and open it every few hours to check the humidity level. When the humidity reaches 68%, take the shot glass out, wait several minutes and check the relative humidity. When the humidity level without the shot glass reaches 68% (the level recommended for Habanos, the Cuban national cigar authority), put the cigars in. This process can take up to ten days, so be patient. Remember, the more slowly the hardwood walls absorb moisture, the more slowly they release it. We can pre-season your humidor, if you want, by placing Boveda seasoning packets inside before shipping, to cut down on your waiting time.
Humidor capacity
There is a great discrepancy in the way humidors are rated for their capacity. When a seller or manufacturer says a humidor holds 100 cigars, they usually don't tell you what size cigars they have in mind. There's a huge difference in size between a humidor that holds 100 Coronas and one that holds 100 double Coronas. Here's how we rate the capacity of our humidors: we multiply the inner length by the inner width by the depth of the bottom portion of the box. We divide that number by 4, which is the approximate size in cubic inches of a Churchill sized cigar (.75" x .75" x 7"), and round off the result. We do not count the space in the lid (called the headroom) because a lot of it is often consumed by humidifiers(s) and hygrometer. Will your humidor hold the exact number of Churchills indicated by the rating? Probably not, because there is always wasted space, but our rating system will give you an accurate and consistent basis for comparing the capacity of different humidors.
Box dimensions
All of the dimension related to our humidors are approximate because we use rough, locally milled lumber. The final thickness of our boards is determined by how much milling we have to do to make the lumber smooth and square. Many times, the actual size ends up being bigger, but it could be slightly smaller.
A note on hand made wood products
Truly handmade wood products sometimes have tiny surface imperfections because, unlike assembly line mass-produced goods, they are touched by human hands every step of the way. It's kind of like organic vegetables. They tend to be not quite as glitzy and perfect as the produce of mega farms. This is especially true with figured woods like birdseye and curly maple, which, when created by hand, sometimes have tiny dimples. If you are not satisfied in any way with your humidor, we'll refund your money or give you a replacement. But keep in mind that you may find a tiny glitch or two. They won't affect the beauty or functionality of your humidor, and they are part of the charm of truly handmade wood products.
One final note: the interior portion of the base of your humidor--the part you don't see--will probably be made of oak or ash. There are two reasons for this: First. it helps us keep down the cost of your humidor, and second, in the case of less dense hardwoods, making the base of oak or ash enhances the moisture retention qualities of the humidor. If you want this part of your humidor the same as your primary wood choice, just let us know. |
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